Odessa - City Information

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Odessa info

Historical background

Centuries and centuries ago the Odessa area was inhabited by people. The first ones appeared on this territory about 600, 000 years ago. On the west coats of Kuyalnik estuary the remains of late Paleiolithic settlement were found. This land has always welcomed those who finally found Odessa bay after long wanders in the steppe. At the start of the 1st century BC the mysterious Cimmerian nomads appeared in this area and stayed there for long time. The fist mention of the people is found in Homer's "Odyssey" in which this territory is described as miserable foggy land. Later Cimmerians were displaced by Scythians, another nomadic people.

At the same time as the Scythians appeared north of the Black Sea, the ancient Greeks came to this area. From the 5th to the 3rth centuries BC Greek settlements appeared on the shores of Odessa bay and founded trading station at the place of modern Odessa sea port. The Scythians were replaced by Sarmatians around the 1st century AD. After that this area was a Roman province, survived the attacks of Huns who destroyed all traces of ancient culture, was inhabited by different Slav tribes.

In the13th century, there was the time of Golden Horde. The sea maps of that period call Odessa Dzhinestra. From the end of the14the century and the begging of the 15th Odessa was the part of "Great Lithuanian Principality". It when it acquired name Kachubey (Kachubeev, Khadzhibei).

Odessa belonged to Ottoman Empire since 1475 and the Turks started to call it Adzhibei. In 1764 the fortress "Eni-Duenya" ("New World") was built there to strengthen Turkish fortification on the Black Sea northern coast. It was defeated by the troops of Major-General de Ribas on 14 September 1789 during the second Russian-Turkish war.

Future Odessa city amazed general de Ribas and he decided that there had to be the major city-port on the Black sea. Together with Frantz de Volan they composed the project of the future city and submitted it to Ekatherine II. 27 May 1794 was the date when Ekaterina approved the project and signed the rescript that allowed building the sea port and the city. This date is considered to be Odessa birthday.

Admiral de Ribas, the first governor and benefactor of Odessa city greatly contributed into the city development and flourishing. The most famous city street, Deribasovskaya Street was named after this outstanding person.

Another meaningful figure in the history of Odessa was Duke de Richelieu, who was the city Governor since 1803. Richelieu's intelligence and energy gave rise to a miracle. The period he was at power was called a "Golden Age" for Odessa and the city was called the "Southern Wonder", which indicated the city’s equal standing with St. Petersburg, traditionally called "The Northern Wonder". Odessa was soon recognized as the 3rd city of the Russian Empire. It was an island of freedom as peasant refugees from other parts of the empire were given their freedom; traders were given support to set their business and foreign immigrants received tax concessions and loans to build homes. All of this gave rise to wonderful variety of cultures, religions and lifestyles that became interwoven in the fabric of the city. The city thrived and was able to take its place in the world stage in the fields of science, economics and politics.

Richelieu’s successor, Duke Langeron won the free trade ("free port") right for Odessa sea port. The customs duty for the goods imported to Odessa was equal to only one fifth of their value. And the money taken was spent on the city accomplishment

Alexander Fedorovich Langeron initiated laying out the 1st Botanical garden, publishing the 1st Odessa newspaper and establishing its 1st college.

Next governors of Odessa – Count M. Vorontsov (1823-1854), Count P. Kotsebu (1862-1874), and Major G. Marazli (1878-1894) contributed a lot into the city development.

For instance Vorontsov and his wife attracted rich people to the city, which led to prosperity of the city stores, restaurants and theaters. He turned Odessa into the main commercial port of the south of Russia and managed to prologue "free port" privilege for the nest 10 years.

Count P. Kotsebu paid his main attention to Odessa accomplishment and city conveniences. Streets paving took place then, the city knew what running water was and he railway road was being built. He founded the city 1st university and college for women.

During the governing of Marazli the 1st in Russia bacteriological station and 1st chemical laboratories were opened. 1st public library, art museum, children's and eye hospitals were founded. Electric lighting appeared

However Odessa was not spared by war. On 30th of April 1854, the English frigate "The Tiger", manned by Anglo-French crew was bombarding the city and port when it ran aground in the fog. The crew surrendered and the ship was lost, but one of its cannons remained in Odessa and now serves as a monument to the Crimean war.

During the revolution in 1905 the legendary battleship "Prince Potemkin Tavrichesky" entered the port flying the red flag of the communists.

The city has a powerful partisan movement during the Great Patriotic War and Odessa heroism in the fight against Nazi deserved it the name of the "Hero City".

Modern Odessa is Ukraine's main sea port and the administrative center of the Odessa Oblast (province). The city of Odessa hosts two important ports: Odessa itself and Yuzhne (also an internationally important oil terminal), situated in the city's suburbs. Another important port, Illichivs'k, is located in the same oblast, to the south-west of Odessa. Together they represent a major transport hub integrating with railways. After Kiev and Kharkov - Odessa is the biggest city, the industrial, cultural, scientific and resort center of Northern Black Sea Coast. This is the city of one million people with a vivid history, unique architecture and a most original culture.

Odessa sights

Russian poet Nikolai Zabolotny called Deribasovskaya street "the queen of all streets in the world". Deribasovskaya street is the favorite street of Odessa citizens and its guests. Many historical evens are connected with it. The street is quintessential Odessa, in concentrated form. Here each square centimeter of pavement holds within it happy memories.

It as named after Admiral de Ribas, the first governor and benefactor of Odessa. Deribasovskaya street is more then a name, it is a touchstone, a fairy –tale character, a figure of speech. From the mouths of Odessa inhabitants the expression "Now, I’ll take a running jump from Deribasovskaya street" means contemptuous refusal. The words "I'd kiss the stone of Deribasovskaya street" expresses extreme nostalgia, and to "meander along Deribasovskaya street" is one of the best ways to pass some carefree hours.

Deribasovskaya street boasts numerous cafes, restaurants, bars and eateries of all seasons, alluring shop windows and film posters. The street has been closed to traffic for 15 years and is a favorite walking area in Odessa.

The street leads to the City Garden, the oldest of the many parks and gardens that grace Odessa today. The balcony of the "Utoch-Kino" cinema is decorated with the sculpted figure of Sergei Utochkin, a legendary Odessan athlete, aviation pioneer and a champion cyclist.

The Naval Museum of Ukraine is situated in the building of the former English Club. That there was an English Club in Odessa can be explained by the fact that such places existed in all self-respecting cities of the time. Or maybe it was because the Governor General, at the time the club was built (1842), Prince Vorontsov was Anglophile. The other Governor General of Odessa, Prince Stroganov, was, on the contrary, an Anglophobe. However his day began, as a rule, by going to the English Club and reading English newspapers. The club's visitors had reputation for eccentricity. This eccentric spirit has been retained in the museum, which was founded in 1965. It is the only museum dedicated to the merchant – as opposed to military- fleet in the whole of the former USSSR, and boats a splendid collection of model ships as well as interesting information about history of the merchant fleet, which played such a vital role in the development of Odessa.

The displays of Archeological Museum reflect the activity of Odessan society of history and antiquity. The lure of antiquity has attracted explores and curio-hunters to Odessa since the time the city was founded. In the Archeological Museum one can see the material evidence of the history of the peoples of the Northern Black Sea region from period to period – through pre-historic communal times, antiquity, the Scythian – Sarmatian period and the era of early Slavs. The collection of Egyptian antiquities is considered the riches on Ukraine. The pride of the Museum is the "Golden Treasure House".

In front of the building of Archeological Museum there stands a statue of Laocoon, a copy of the sculptural work by Hagesandros now housed in Vatican. It was gifted to Odessa a hundred years ago. The subject of the sculpture is a story from the Ancient Greek myth about the fall of Troy. The priest Laocoon and his 2 sons battle with snakes, who according to the legend kill them in the end. Torment is reflected on Laocoon’s face; terror and despair – in the stance and gestures of his sons. There are those who think that the Odessan Laocoon has far greater torments to bear than Vatican cousin.

The Boulevard runs above the cliff, right by the seaside. For its architectural merits it is included in UNESCO's list of world heritage sites as one of the most beautiful places in the world. After many renamings (the boulevard has borne the names Nikolaevsky and Feldman), it is now bears a neutral name - Primorsky (Seaside). At its starting point stands the building of City Duma, which was constructed as the 1st Exchange House of Odessa.

The building of City Duma, which was constructed as the 1st Exchange House of Odessa is a starting point of Primorsky Boulevard and is one of the most beautiful buildings in Odessa. This architectural masterpiece was created by F. Boffo. Following the tradition to decorate public buildings with the statues symbolizing the activities that take place inside, this one is decorated with the statues of Mercury and Ceres – patron gods of trade and fertility in ancient times. This conveyed the idea that absolutely everything could be bought and sold there.

The statue of Duke of Richelieu (created in 1828 by sculptor I. Martos and architect A. Melnikov) is considered to be a symbol of Odessa. It is devoted to Armand Emmanuel du Plessis, Duke of Richelieu, who was made the governor of Odessa city by a decree by Alexander I in 1803. This was the start of the "Golden Age" of the city.

Richelieu's intelligence and energy gave rise to a miracle. The city was soon recognized as the 3rd city of the Russian Empire. Its great port and a variety of subsidies and progressive laws allowed him to create an island of freedom. Duke of Richelieu continued the ideas of de Ribas. He took care of the garden, personally planted chestnut trees, cultivated the white acacia and actually set the first park in Odessa. It is now calked a green museum of Odessa as it preservers many wonderful samples of hundred-year-old trees.

Having received the order to "observe and carefully consider all the aspects of city administration", Duke of Richelieu took his responsibilities with great energy. He closely considered all the detail of the city life, however was against excessive government interference with the commercial life. His 11-year old governing the city turned Odessa into the 3rd city in the Russian Empire.

The small preserved area, still called "A corner if Old Odessa" is a vivid example of cemetery architecture, which is so characteristic of the city architecture. A famous novelist, Illia Ilf said: "it is a strange town, where they took monuments out of the cemetery…" Architectural relic from all over the city re have been gathered in Old Odessa: an open-work park bench, a bronze griffon, a “hutch-backed” wooden bridge, the marble bowl of well, a figure of a grieving woman, which obviously once served as a grave stone. This "Corner of Old Odessa" is especially popular with tourist and newly –weds.

The Shah's palace was until recently a Center for Folk Arts. However it has now changed hands and has been modernized and restored in somewhat Oriental style. The palace was erected by the Architect Gonsiorovsky in 1852. In 1909, the deposed Shah of Iran bought the building. At the outbreak of the revolution in Russia he escaped abandoning his harem as colorful Odessa legends have it. Nowadays the building inhabits Sea Transport Bank

The Literary Museum court yard or a yard of sculptures continues the long-standing tradition of Odessa yards. It is not only decorated by flower beds and has a fountain in the center, but is inhabited by different sculptures. They are quite unusual and can be considered to be the next exposure of the museum as show different literature heroes and humorous figures. The annual "Humorina" (The Day of Laughter) celebrated in Odessa on 1 April is marked by opening the next sculpture. This wonderful tradition was begun in 1995, when the sculpture of Rabinovich, the hero of many Odessa anecdotes appeared. This idea belonged to Michael Zhvanetskiy, a famous writer of humorous stories. The sculpture was created by artist Rezo Gabridze In 1996 the statue to the "the Coming Genius" of Odessa was set up. Since then 9 sculptures appeared. Among them one can see the “monument to "Antilopa Gnu" crew", dedicated to the well-known novel "the Golden Calf" by Illia Ilv and Evgeniy Petrov, caricature sculpture of Michael Zhvanetskiy, sculpture of Sashka the musician. Sashka, the musician is the main character of Alexander Kuprin's story "Gambrinus". This is an ordinary small crippled man who could create a miracle by the music he played on his violin.

In 2000 the sculpture to Odessa Mama (the city is often called this way) that holds the central place in the yard was put up. The grand opening of every sculpture is a festive show, which writers, artists, humorists, showmen and honored guests of the city take part in. The sculpture yard has become one of the most popular sites of Odessa. It is often visited by tourists, political figures and cultures workers.

Odessa harbor and seaport terminal is worth visiting even if one is not planning to take a sea voyage. A huge concrete ad glass structure of the sea terminal was built to Western standards, incorporating the latest technology with due regard for service requirements. A great view of the Odessa harbor and sea port opens while one is descending Potemkinskaya (Potemkin) Steps. The lighthouse, the ships, sailing along, vessels coming to port. If one stands facing the sea in the square by the port terminal, on the left is the quay where the “shuttle boats” from Turkey moor. On the right boats to the resorts of Langeron and Arcadia unmoor. At the end of the Port Terminal there is a prestigious Yacht Club and an elegant church of St. Nikolas, the Miracle Worker, known as the kindest of all Orthodox saints, the protector of all sailors, travelers and fishermen. The most outstanding budding here is 19-storied “Odessa” hotel .

19-storied "Odessa" hotel is situated right in the center of sea port terminal. This largest of the international class options was built very recently. Apart from the picturesque views over the sea, port and city, one can relax in a comfortable and pleasant atmosphere. The hotel offers such facilities as restaurant, bar, billiard, hall, sauna, fitness center, and a lot more.

Potemkin Steps is the most famous spot in Odessa, which has become the symbol of the city, as the Eifel Tower in Paris, the Tveri Fountain in Rome and Peter-Paul fortress in St. Petersburg. The name "Potemkin" was given to the steps in honor of the 50th anniversary of revolutionary events of 1905 – the rebellion of the battleship "Potemkin" that took place in Odessa seaway. Potemkin was a powerful statesman, the favorite of Catherine the Great and actually played part in foundation of Odessa. From the beginning the steps were known as the Boulevard Steps, or the Giant Staircase, but they were less famous for that. It is not just the scale of the stairway that is impressive. Especially since the two hundred steps have reduced to one hundred and ninety two. It is one of the best places of the city one can get a view of the harbor from. It is interesting that there is a disproportion one never notices. The width of the top step is 13.4 m and the bottom on is 21.7 m.

More about Odessa at Wikipedia

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